Inspiration

The Perfect Weekend in Aspen

When time is short, spend it well in Aspen—here are a few tips for planning the ultimate weekend in the mountains.
Image may contain Plant Tree Birch Tree Trunk Fir and Abies
Photo by Laura Dannen Redman

In some places, the walls have ears. In Aspen, the trees have eyes—notches in stark-white quaking aspens that look painted on, almost as if the locals had planted a cadre of guard-trees to defend Aspen ideals. Or maybe the Aspen Idea, a decades-old notion that the Colorado resort town, set at a #blessed intersection of mountains and water, was the perfect spot to rejuvenate mind, body, and spirit. It's what prompted the birth of the Aspen Institute, which holds regular meetings of politicians, authors, musicians, and other thinkers of Big Thoughts at the Institute (there's a great photo of Adlai Stevenson getting a workout while in town). Come summertime, there are also more music festivals than mountains to climb. Think Aspen's just a fancy mountain town providing respite for burnt-out New Yorkers and Angelinos? Think again.

Checking In

Ever since its 2012 renovation, historic Hotel Jerome in downtown Aspen has swapped “frumpy brocade lounges for cow print chairs and leather accents,” turning the 19th-century classic into a popular après-ski spot (like a mellower Ace Hotel with portraits of frontiersmen on its walls). For a less Main Street stay, head five minutes down the road to Aspen Meadows Resort, also home to the Aspen Institute and the Aspen Ideas Festival. It’s not hard to imagine Big Ideas coming from this place—the Bauhaus-designed block of 98 suites is in an inspired setting, on an aspen-strewn 40 acres, with the area's biggest mountains as backdrop. Rooms are open, airy, minimalist yet comfortable, and the hearty bacon-and-eggs room service breakfast comes with photogenic views through floor-to-ceiling windows.

Breakfast with a view at Aspen Meadows Resort.

Photo by Laura Dannen Redman

Day 1: Get Outdoors

To get the most out of Aspen, you have to breathe that mountain air. If it's winter, warm up on the slopes of Snowmass Mountain, which has the most variety for beginning and intermediate skiers and boarders; or, if you're a daredevil, on to Aspen Mountain, which has some of the area’s best blacks and double blacks. If the snow’s gone, head to Smuggler Mountain, probably the best-known and most frequented by locals, for an easy-to-moderate hike. The 1.5-mile route is the kind you can do first thing in the morning, when its springtime flowers and Aspen Valley vistas are at their sharpest, or at night when there's a full moon, and the views stretch from earth to stars.

Visiting on a Tuesday in, say, July? Tuesday Cruiseday (not as saucy as it sounds) brings together more than a hundred cyclists for a weekly summer beer ride: Peddlers meet at Aspen Brewing Company at 6:30 p.m. and head through town to Smuggler Park to watch the sunset. All that healthy living begs for a couple post-activity beers at Ajax Tavern, where the furs and cowboy hats are on full display, or some spicy edamame and short rib tacos at Hotel Jerome's J-Bar, where Hunter S. Thompson's liver used to go for regular workouts. Just don't forget that reservation you have at Matsuhisa, the Aspen outpost of Chef Nobu's mini-empire—exquisitely fresh sushi with Peruvian flavors, served in a charming Victorian home.

A sunny respite inside the Aspen Art Museum.

Stephen Orr

Day 2: Get Cultured

On a workday, we start our morning with fuel—a black coffee, or maybe a cold brew—but on vacation, we hold out for the perfectly poured espresso. At Victoria's brews and breakfast have an Aussie inflection—there's even Vegemite on toast—so this is the place for a flat white or matcha. Then, coffee in hand, head around the corner to the Aspen Art Museum, one of the newest additions to the city's cultural canvas. Its hallmark is the distinctive woven cube building by Pritzker Prize–winning architect Shigeru Ban, which draws a sharp contrast to the brick-and-Victorian aesthetic of downtown Aspen. Beyond the museum's lattice-like facade is bold, sometimes controversial contemporary art, both local and international, with past exhibits honoring David Hammon and Yves Klein, and future shows—well, let's just say The Revolution Will Not Be Gray.

Spend an hour or two wandering the museum galleries before detouring for lunch at the White House Tavern, a crowd-pleaser in a former miner's cottage that serves (mostly) sandwiches beneath the steep eaves of the historic A.G. Sheppard House, built in 1883. (Try the crispy chicken on the housemade torta.) It's the perfect gastro-foundation for a mid-afternoon siesta, a bit of gallery hopping, or a tour with the Aspen Historical Society, which runs a Historic Pub Crawl on Thursday afternoons starting June 14.

As night comes, save room for an unreal bowl of cavatelli with spicy sausage in pink tomato sauce (seriously, this pasta must be rolled by Italian fairy godmothers) or housemade saffron linguini with Manila clams at The Wild Fig, across the street from the Wheeler Opera House. The 125-year-old Romanesque revival building hosts comedy and film fests, traveling Broadway shows—and yes, even opera. Look for the coming 100th anniversary celebration of the National Parks, also at Wheeler.

Peering into the J-Bar at happy hour.

Photo by Laura Dannen Redman

Day 3: Get Downtown

Have you bought anything yet? No? You're missing out—there's some great shopping in downtown Aspen, a mix of rustic, local looks, and high-end fashion. Carl's Pharmacy is an only-in-Aspen phenomenon, a multi-level emporium with a wine cellar in its basement, beauty supplies on the main level, and upstairs, aisles overstuffed with household goods, toys, fishing gear, and buttons. (Just buttons.) Colorado line MAX Aspen brings Proenza Schouler, Céline, Rick Owens, and Dries Van Noten to town; and if you're looking for good old-fashioned cowboy boots, head to Kemo Sabe.

Once the basics have been bagged, head to Meat & Cheese for some fresh takes on standards. The restaurant and farm shop has delicious everything: fresh bread and buttermilk biscuits with house-smoked ham and pear mustard; a steak board, a sausage board, a pâté board, and the everything-for-everyone meat and cheese board (four of each).

If you're still hungry (really?), migrate to Jimmy's Bodega for its generous happy hour (3:30–5:30 p.m.) or Grey Lady for mussels, oysters, and a glass of rosé. It's all a prelude to the grande Aspen finale: a concert at Belly Up, one of the best music venues in the U.S. This is the kind of place Prince (R.I.P.) would have played back in the day—a 450-person venue that's small enough to feel special but big enough to draw A-list acts, with multiple levels so the kids can cram up front and the more crotchety among us can hang back with a drink and a perfect view.

Yet another perfect view in Aspen.