“I think we can do it in a week,” I confidently advise my husband, as we plot a road trip through Slovenia. Looking at the map, the estimate seems fair: the Central European country is no bigger than New Jersey, a mere postage stamp compared with the rest of the continent.
But now that we’re here, winding around the Alpine switchbacks in our little hatchback, it’s immediately clear that a week isn’t going to cut it. Two would be nice, three ideal. What Slovenia lacks in size, it makes up for in medieval architecture, stylish alfresco cafes, and hit-the-brakes-pretty scenery.
The charm begins in the romantic capital of Ljubljana, where riverside wine bars bring the centuries-old cobbled streets and baroque architecture to life. From there, it’s all glassy mountain lakes, rolling vineyards, mountains of prosciutto, fresh cheese, and castles—so many castles. No matter which way you turn, there’s a 15th-century village or a craggy karst canyon begging for a pitstop. Southwest of Ljubljana, the UNESCO-inscribed Skocjan Caves wind underground for 3.8 miles, while the Renaissance-era Predjama Castle dramatically hovers over the mouth of a cave.
“Slovenia is perfect for a road trip because it is tiny, picturesque, and very diverse,” Katja Ros, owner of Chalets Nebesa in the western Soča River Valley, tells Condé Nast Traveler. “Everything is within a 2-hour drive from the capital Ljubljana. And most of the popular attractions are clustered in the western half of the country.”
While Slovenia’s bus and train system are both well-connected, driving along the sinuous country roads affords total freedom to explore every corner of one of Europe’s prettiest countries—a luxury you’ll appreciate, even if short on time.
How We Did It:
Geographically, it makes the most sense to start in Ljubljana (pronounced lyoo-blyah-nah), unless you’re driving from Italy or Austria—a common decision, given that Slovenia is part of the European Union (following the breakup of Yugoslavia in 1991). One word of warning before hitting the road: You need a “vignette” sticker to drive on Slovenian highways in lieu of tolls (pick one up for a few Euros at any gas station) or face a hefty fine of up to $895.
Ljubljana
Named the “Green Capital of Europe 2016,” Ljubljana does ecotourism with aplomb. There’s a pedestrian-only Old Town (so drop the car at the hotel), communal bikes up for grabs and leafy parks—the largest being the 1,260-acre Park Tivoli. You can easily spend an afternoon ambling around Prešeren Square, strolling across the Ljubljanica River on the white-stone Triple Bridge, and climbing up to the hilltop 16th-century Ljubljana Castle.
For a taste of traditional Slovenian cuisine, book a table at Gostilna na Gradu, in the castle’s central courtyard—or alternatively, opt for big-as-your-face burgers and local craft beers at Pop’s Place by the river. There’s also Luda, near the Central Market. Taking a creative approach to Slovenian tradition, the set menus here change every week to follow the seasons (or the whims of chefs Luka Nagode and Urška Dvoraček). But if it’s a fine-dining experience you’re after, JB Restaurant was recently named a “Top 100 World’s Best Restaurant”—just make sure to book ahead.
Turn in for the night at the Antiq Palace Hotel & Spa; with its 16-century facade and romantic suites, it’s perfect for honeymooners. But design lovers will find a more lively scene at the 26-room Hotel Cubo—picture retro-chic furniture and upbeat restaurants and bars.
Ptuj
About 1.5 hours northeast of Ljubljana lies Slovenia’s oldest city, Ptuj, with bright red rooftops and medieval architecture (it was once a Roman settlement in the 1st century BC). Visit the Ptuj Castle (one of dozens in the region) and charming Old Town, and stay for easy access to the Podravska, Štajerska, and Drava Wine regions, known for producing a mix of dry, sparkling and dessert white wines. Stay just outside of Maribor, about 30 minutes north of Ptuj, at Chateau Ramsak, a 15-hectare property at the Ramšak Estate and home to rustic chalets and tree houses, so vines are literally in your backyard. And don’t miss the city’s claim to fame, the 400-year-old Old Vine at the aptly named Old Vine House, and the 19th-century Vinag wine cellar, a 200,000-square-foot labyrinth that will impress even the most jaded of oenophiles.
Then, head west and make a pitstop at Lake Bled at the foot of the Julian Alps, home to a Disney-like castle on a hill and rowboats plying their way to a tiny, church-dotted island. Be aware that peak summer months draw tour buses of visitors (particularly in July and August), occasionally detracting from the serenity, but it’s still worth a stop. Stay the night at Hotel Vila Bled (one of former Yugoslavia president Tito’s old mansions) on the waterfront, before driving 2 miles north to the dramatic Vintgar Gorge.
Soča River Valley
Though many head up the northern pass over the snow-capped peaks of the Julian Alps, a shorter route around the base takes you to Lake Bohinj—a smaller, lesser frequented version of Lake Bled with a village, church, and peaceful pathways in the Triglav National Park (the country’s largest nature reserve). From there, it’s 90 minutes to Kobarid in the heart of the Soča River Valley (where Hemingway is said to have penned A Farewell to Arms). With blue skies, pastel village houses, green forests, and a shock of turquoise river gushing through the valley, it’s the kind of place where you go for a hike in the morning—perhaps along the Soča River to the Kozjak Waterfalls—and sip Chardonnay on the terrace of Restaurant Topli Val all afternoon.
Settle in for a few days at the mountain-top Chalets Nebesa, home to four private Alpine cottages—each with a private deck overlooking the Soča River below and Julian Alps beyond. Complimentary prosciutto and wine is up for grabs anytime of day, not to mention hiking trails right behind the property and an entire floor dedicated to saunas. The Soča Valley also happens to be home to Slovenia’s most celebrated restaurant, Hiša Franko. Behind the stoves is Chef Ana Roš, named the World’s Best Female Chef by The World's 50 Best Restaurants awards this year, and the six- or 11-course tasting menus change every month, featuring foraged local ingredients, cheeses, fish, meat, and more.
Goriška Brda
Heading south along the western border with Italy, country roads will lead you to the Goriška Brda wine region, known for its dry white Rebula and dessert wine Picolit (the oldest variety in the region). Vineyard mansions and guesthouses like Zlati Grič dot the rolling green countryside, where 680 wineries make up the "Tuscany of Slovenia.” A cruise through the Brda Hills will pass by top producers, such as Movia, Klinec, and Simcic.
Last stop: Piran Peninsula
Though not the most obvious beach getaway, Slovenia has its own sliver of Adriatic coastline. Jutting off the country’s southwest corner, the Piran Peninsula is known for its Venetian Gothic architecture (thanks to five centuries of Italian rule), glowing sunsets, and alfresco wine bars. Drop the car at the Barbara Piran Beach Hotel & Spa or the Kempinski Palace Portorož Istria (a few minutes’ drive south), then make a beeline for the pedestrian-only Old Town. The peninsula might look small from afar, but it’s deceptively long, stretching out into the Adriatic. Once you start walking, every narrow alleyway seems to open into an unexpected new world—much like Slovenia itself.
