Review: Tierra Patagonia

Why book?
Helmed by a dynamic team determined to do things differently, this architecturally impressive eco property offers a diverse range of activities—and the best views.

Set the scene
It may not be within the boundaries of Torres del Paine National Park, but there’s no better place to appreciate the full glory of Chile’s iconic granite towers than from the grounds of this thoughtfully built hotel. Curving around the glistening, glacial Sarmiento Lake, an amphitheater of rooms gazes up at the Paine massif, with scenes constantly shifting depending on the time of day. 

Masterminded by Chilean architect Cazu Zegers, the sweeping, arcing shape of the building was inspired by wind and finished in weather-washed local lenga wood to create a sanctuary almost disappearing into the land.

United by a love of the outdoors, the range of guests is demographically diverse: Find young couples kitted out with the latest Arcteryx gear and retirees who still have a kick in their step. Hiking boots, not heels, are best for lounging by the bar—and there’s no shame in wearing merinos to dinner.

The backstory
A love letter to nature, with no expense spared, this budget-busting property was never built with purely profit in mind. Owned and founded by the Chilean Purcell family, best known for their high-end 70-year-old Ski Portillo resort in the Andes, it’s every inch a passion project and Executive Director Miguel Purcell readily admits “they’ll never build a hotel like this again.”

Launched in 2012, it’s the middle child in the trio of Tierra properties, forming a neat circuit with the starry skies of San Pedro de Atacama and the folkloric islands of Chiloe. Australian-based Baillie lodge (New Zealand’s Huka Lodge; South Lodge on Australia’s Kangaroo Island) recently acquired a major chunk of the business, promising new investment opportunities and greater things to come.

The rooms
There’s no argument about who gets the best view here. All 40 rooms in the low-lying, two-story building look onto the park’s iconic towers, with large windows to catch Patagonia’s expansive steppes and skies. Warm woods have a soft Scandi appeal, while the simple, minimalist decoration gives a sense of place: Admire crafts made with driftwood salvaged from the nearby lake shores and snuggle into sheepskin rugs shorn from flocks on the estancia. 

The main difference between standard and superior rooms is size, while suites have a mezzanine and lounge area. All feature a clever pillar box window in the bathrooms, meaning you’ll never miss a second of that view.

The spa
The big draw of the Uma Spa is its glass-fronted heated indoor infinity pool, with hydro-massage and waterjets. Watch the towers play hide and seek as clouds shift with the wind and keep an eye out for guanacos and rheas who come close to the lodge. An outdoor whirlpool is a favorite spot for sipping a glass of velvety carmenere on a calm evening; inside, dimly lit treatment rooms provide a sanctuary from the elements. Yoga sessions take place in a dedicated studio and there are separate relaxation areas for men and women.

Food and drink
Meaty Patagonian classics like lamb stew feature alongside lighter, elegant dishes—all served below a wooden ceiling to give a sense of dining in the forest. House wines include an excellent selection of South American bottles, alongside Patagonian craft beers. Cocktails include a signature Calafate sour—a take on the classic pisco-based cocktail made with locally foraged berries. 

The neighborhood/area
One of only three lodges on Cerro Guido, the largest estancia in the area, the lodge has access to all the top activities of Torres (a 15-minute drive away) alongside more offbeat, crowd-free outings to ancient burial sites, Jurassic fossil trails, and working sheep farms. A partnership with NGO Fundacion Cerro Guido allows guests to shadow researchers studying pumas and their habitat.  

The service
Beyond its good looks, Tierra’s deeper beauty lies in the quality of experiences delivered. A young team of Chilean hikers, naturalists, and adventurers is responsible for coordinating activities based on a guest’s interests; bucket list highlights are combined with secret spots discovered during recces by staff on days off. Driving their enthusiasm is brilliant long-time British-born manager Nicholas Russ, whose office overlooks the hotel entrance, allowing him to personally greet guests returning from every activity—without fail.

For families
Ten of the superior rooms can be interconnected and converted into family apartments, sleeping up to six people. 

Eco effort
Whether it’s staff welfare or operations of contributions to the surrounding area, conservation is at the core of Tierra. Various means have been employed to reduce energy usage and a pilot scheme is underway to trial solar panels. Tierra also participates in a reforestation project to plant a million trees across Patagonia. 

Accessibility
Several rooms are designed for people with disabilities, and although some activities are restricted there are plenty of alternative options. An inspiration to all is assistant manager of excursions Kineret Munoz, who hasn’t let a paralyzing car accident dampen her spirit of adventure one little bit. 

Anything left to mention?
Take a sunset stroll along a path to Sarmiento Lake and watch shadows dance over 7,000-year-old pumice-like boulders known as thrombolites.