Inspiration

16 Reasons to Visit Canada in the Middle of Winter

It's actually not crazy to head north when the temperature drops—here's why.
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Courtesy Nordik Spa

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Yes, it’s gloomy, dark, and frigid. But that shouldn’t stop you from visiting Canada in the winter. With tourists gone, Toronto, Montreal and Ottawa reveal their true personalities. Locals cheer themselves up with over-the-top festivals. You don’t have to fight for space in museums and restaurants. And hotel rates drop as much as the temperatures. Here’s a selective guide to what makes each city so chill in cold weather.

Ottawa

Winterlude

Leave it to Canadians to create a festival that celebrates frigid temps. Winterlude spans three weeks in January and February with a global ice-carving competition whose eye-popping sculptures get scattered citywide. All five miles of the Rideau Canal becomes the world’s largest outdoor skating rink. And for the kids, there’s Snowflake Kingdom, the world’s largest snow playground.

Museums and Parliament

In summertime, Ottawa’s museums get mobbed. But you’ll have plenty of elbow room in cold-weather months, even for blockbuster shows like the National Gallery of Canada’s "Monet: A Bridge To Modernity," which runs through February 14. Same with Canada’s Parliament; unlike sardine-packed summer tours, winter excursions through the spectacular Gothic-revival buildings are more leisurely affairs. And around Christmas, you’ll see the towers bathed in sublime nighttime light shows.

Town

Once a white-tablecloth yawn, Ottawa’s food scene has exploded in recent years. These days, you’ve got to fight for space at global-minded, local-sourcing hotspots like Town, whose fireworks—think pastrami duck hearts with watermelon gazpacho and whipped feta—have the capital buzzing. Just ignore Town’s location near a check-cashing spot on a blah downtown block.

Novotel

Ottawa may still be somewhat lacking in upscale hotels, but the Novotel comes closest. Sleek and modern, it’s across from the newly spiffed-up Rideau Centre mall, home to Canada’s second Nordstrom. And its restaurant, The Albion Rooms, earns raves for Chef Stephen LaSalle’s cheeky takes on Brit-Can cuisine, like thrice-cooked chips and and Scotch eggs with tourtière sausage and fruit ketchup. And as a (big) added bonus: Hotel rates dip dramatically in winter, meaning a suite starts at about $99 per night.

The Scotch Egg at Novotel.

Courtesy Novotel

Nordik Spa

Ready for a dip in cold water in the middle of winter? Pilgrims trek to North America’s largest spa—10 minutes from downtown Ottawa—for the “Thermal Cycle,” which alternates hot and cold dips for maximum detox. A day pass ($195) gets you access to Nordik’s seven baths, eight saunas, infinity pool, and pristine relaxation areas. And if that all sounds too virtuous, feel free to finish your treatments with port and chocolate from its Resto bistro.

Toronto

Winterlicious

Winterlicious may be a cheesy name for Toronto’s annual restaurant week, which takes place from next January 29 through February 11. But there’s serious prix-fixe savings on buzzy eateries like Parts & Labour, famous for its pig tails and scallion pancakes, Liberty Village comfort-food mecca Mildred’s Temple Kitchen, and see-and-be-seen Yorkville hangout La Société.

PATH

If Toronto’s famously frigid temps become too much to bear, the city’s underground PATH system makes a sweet escape—with 19 miles of retail and restaurants, it’s the world’s largest underground shopping complex. There’s schlock, to be sure, but you can also get to highly regarded local eateries like sushi palace Blowfish, and Tundra, with surprisingly good “Canadian inspired” cuisine like duck ham.

Bloor-Yorkville Icefest

Every year, ice sculptures transform tony Yorkville into an eye-popping wonderland. The theme for 2016 (which takes place on February 20 and 21): "Frozen in Time," with Egyptian-inspired carvings of King Tut and Anubis. This is serious stuff; streets close so pedestrians can take in the icy art, and a DJ pounds out seasonally appropriate techno. Duck into local chocolatier and nosh spot MoRoCo for a hot chocolate and lush quiche.

Next Stage Theatre Festival

Toronto’s sprawling summer Fringe Festival is one of the world’s biggest indie theater events. And every January, artists who’ve performed at Fringe debut their newest work at Next Stage. This 12-day happening (January 6-17) is part industry showcase, part talent incubator, and part schmooze-fest; Canada’s cultural A-listers usually stop by to check out up-and-comers. If you’ve seen Fringes anywhere, you know productions can defy description. But you also know you won’t be bored.

Shop the great indoors

Now that the Loonie—Canada’s dollar—is in free-fall against the greenback, it’s a great time to shop. Downtown’s Eaton Centre mall has got more than 230 stores, from Club Monaco and Michael Kors to local mainstays Harry Rosen and Roots (Saks is set to debut in 2016). An easy subway ride north, Yorkdale Shopping Centre has been upping its luxury quotient. New arrivals at this 240-store behemoth include Moncler, John Varvatos, and Jimmy Choo; Canadian luxe retailer Holt Renfrew is an anchor.

Where to hide out

Even locals don’t know about the Templar Hotel, whose 27 loft-like rooms boast Poliform furniture, organic mattresses, and 9-foot ceilings. Hidden in plain sight on a buzzing downtown street, it’s a cozy, secret-feeling lair. On a budget? Try Canada’s largest hotel, the Chelsea, with an unbeatable Yonge St. Location. Newly reflagged as a Langham property, it’s been spiffed up in cool mint and wood tones, and you can dip in the enclosed rooftop pool even if the weather’s frightful.

Montreal

Igloofest

Only in Montreal could you dance to pounding techno on a frozen waterfront surrounded by 19th-century buildings. Igloofest takes over downtown’s Old Port for four weekends in January and February (January 14–February 6), with big-time international DJs like Brazil’s Gui Boratto, Britain’s Girl Unit, and Flosstradamus from the US.

Montreal en Lumiere

One of the world’s largest winter festivals, Montreal en Lumiere—“Montreal in Lights”—seems to have no purpose other than luring Montrealers downtown with great food and A-list performances. That’s not a bad thing. Over two-and-a-half weeks (February 18—March 5), you'll sample Quebec’s world-class cheeses and and take in all-night art and culture offerings at Montreal’s version of Nuit Blanche.

Sculptures on display at Bloor-Yorkville Icefest.

Courtesy Icefest

Shop Old Montreal

Time was the only fashion you could buy in Old Montreal was cheap souvenir schmattes. But the neighborhood’s hot again, and rue St-Paul has become a happening fashion strip. Look for high end labels like Marni and Balenciaga at Cahiers D’Exercices; check out Quebec designer Denis Gagnon’s Batcave-like subterranean boutique; swoon over Dries van Noten at Michel Brisson. And before you faint over price tags, remember the favorable exchange rate.

Schwartz’s and Moishe’s

You’re in one of the world’s ficklest, fastest-moving restaurant cities. But forget trendy: Nothing’s more soul-warming on a cold night than a meal at these legendary local spots. After nearly 90 years, gleaming Schwartz’s deli still brings it with peerless smoked meat and French fries (order your sandwich on rye with mustard, or risk exposure as a novice). At opulent Moishe’s, one of the world’s great steakhouses, you still get free pickles plopped on the table along with your $58 lamb chops and $62 filet mignon. It’s worth it.

Epik Hotel

You can’t wave a baguette in Old Montreal these days without hitting a new hotel. But the Epik feels different. Recently rehabbed, the property is petit—just 10 loft-like rooms, with imposing original stonework and giant windows. On a freezing day, you’ll feel like you’re retreating into a cozy Montreal apartment. A tiny breakfast room serves superlative croissants and coffee, and the Epik Resto-Terrace eatery offers decent small plates like salmon tartare and grilled octopus.

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