Destinations

11 Best Things to Do in Edinburgh

This is one city that artfully balances the (very) old with the new.

February 5, 2019

Scotland Edinburgh Castle Edinburgh Castle

If you're not into history, then Edinburgh might not be for you—but it'll be your loss, because it happens to be one of the world’s best cities to soak it all up. It’s not all antiquity and Harry Potter, though; in one moment, you might find yourself wandering around a 1,000-year-old building, and in the next, viewing the work of Scotland’s most cutting-edge artists. Oh, and did we mention the gelato? We've got it all covered on this list, our picks for the best things to do (and see, and eat) in Scotland’s capital city.

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Arthur's Seat
As you ascend the hill known as Arthur’s Seat, you can’t believe you're less than two miles from the center of Scotland’s capital city—the wild, rugged, and rocky climb is only a 45-minute walk each way. If you do it early in the day or late in the afternoon, you’ll see local runners; but most people just walk this trail, which takes you right to the center of Holyrood Park—and to the spectacular views over the city and the Firth of Forth.
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Greyfriars Kirkyard
Sure, it's a graveyard—but Greyfriars Kirkyard, which has been housing the dead since the late 1500s, is no ordinary cemetery. In fact, it's one of the most popular tourist destinations in Edinburgh. The dog statue outside the gates pays tribute to Bobby, the faithful canine who laid at his owner's grave for 14 years; it's considered good luck to rub his nose. Check out the caged graves (known as mortsafes), made to protect cadavers from being exhumed and sold to Edinburgh Medical College for dissection—a huge problem in Edinburgh during the early 19th-century.

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Royal Mile
You would struggle to miss Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, even if you tried. Splicing through the Old Town (Edinburgh also has a New Town, built in the late 1700s), the Royal Mile is actually a succession of streets that link the two royal buildings of Scotland’s capital: Edinburgh Castle at the top of the hill, and the Palace of Holyroodhouse, a mile away, at the bottom. It’s lined, too, with Edinburgh’s famed closes (historic, narrow laneways) and plays host to some excellent, albeit touristy, shopping. But ignore the tat and head straight for the cashmere, the key thing to buy in Scotland; the Royal Mile’s wool shops often offer great deals.
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Water of Leith Walkway
The Water of Leith Walkway is a 12-mile path that leads from Balerno in Edinburgh’s suburbs, all the way through the capital itself, to the Firth of Forth at Leith on the northernmost tip of the city. Mostly green and leafy, the path largely follows the river known as the Water of Leith, although there are brief interludes that diverge. It’s a long way, so most people opt for sections—on foot, by bike, or, in some parts, on horse—but you can certainly see the whole thing if you have the stamina.

Courtesy National Museum of Scotland
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National Museum of Scotland
If you want to learn about Scottish history and identity, the National Museum of Scotland is your one-stop-shop. It’s in the beating heart of central Edinburgh, and therefore easy to access, and you can’t miss it—it’s one of the few contemporary buildings in this UNESCO-listed part of the city. Inside, you can view the famed Lewis Chessmen, carved in ornate detail from walrus ivory in the 12th century, as well as historic clothing, plus furniture from Scotland’s most acclaimed designers (most notably, Charles Rennie Mackintosh). Don't miss the macabre Miniature Coffins: tiny wooden figures inside little pine coffins that were discovered on Arthur’s Seat in 1836 and have been bound with tales of witchcraft and voodoo ever since. Kids will go nuts for the dinosaur exhibits. Entry is free, and you can take one of the free guided tours, but the labeling throughout is so good throughout that you'll probably be fine going it solo.
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Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art
There are so many things to love about the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art—not least, the peace and quiet. Situated a leisurely (and very enjoyable) half-hour walk from Edinburgh’s Old Town, the gallery is actually two separate Georgian mansions (known as Modern One and Modern Two) separated by a lush sculpture park. Modern One houses some of Scotland’s best collections of modern art, from the Scottish Colourists to Tracey Emin. Hop past the pond and you’ll find yourself at Modern Two, which is renowned for its extensive collection of Dada and Surrealist works, along with the reconstructed studio of pioneering Scottish Pop artist Eduardo Paolozzi. Look out for the changing exhibitions, too—a lot of Europe’s leading shows visit these galleries. And the best part is the museum is completely free (except for temporary exhibitions) so you can wander in and out at your leisure, all while soaking up classic Georgian Edinburgh.

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Mary King's Close
What’s particularly special about Edinburgh’s Old Town is how relatively unchanged it is from its Medieval past. Walking through its ancient streets is like walking through time itself, and Mary King’s Close is one of the best-preserved slices of history in the city. Closes—or alleyways—like Mary King’s were once teeming with people, vermin, crime, and, inevitably, the Plague. Things were so filthy in the 18th century that eventually the city decided to build its new Royal Exchange building (now the City Chambers) on top of the existing city, rather than next to it, thereby sentencing streets like Mary King’s to a lifetime of enclosed darkness. The last resident moved out in 1902; today, tour guides dressed as former residents lead groups around the dark space, where there are still eight-story buildings in situ, all completely underground. Just make sure to book your ticket ahead—it's very popular, and deservedly so.
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Edinburgh Castle
Overlooking the city and capping Castle Rock, Edinburgh Castle looms over Scotland’s capital. Inside the ticket-only affair, you’ll see the Crown Jewels, the Stone of Destiny, and room after majestic room befitting of Scotland’s former royal family. Don’t miss the quiet calm of Saint Margaret’s Chapel, built in 1130, the oldest building in Edinburgh, or the National War Museum, also onsite. Visit the castle earlier in the day rather than later, when it can get crowded, but stick around until 1 p.m. if you can, when a gun is shot into the sky. And if you don’t want to pay the steep £18.50 entry fee (about $24), walk up the Royal Mile to the top and you'll still get to see the castle up close. The scenic views over Edinburgh and the mountains beyond come free of charge.

Courtesy The Stand Comedy Club
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The Stand Comedy Club
Comedy is a fundamental part of Scottish culture—having good craic, or banter, is basically what makes you an acceptable human being in this country. So experiencing a Scottish comedy club zeroes in on this most foundational of Scottish-isms. The Stand, a basement club with performances every night, has a bit of a cult reputation—this is where comedians go to see comedy. It's frequented mainly by locals, but the lucky tourists who know about it will see a side of Scotland they otherwise might not. Although you can book tickets for The Stand (and we recommend you do so in advance), seats aren't assigned, so your best bet is to show up before the doors open to make sure you get a spot; otherwise, you’ll be standing at the bar.
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Advocate's Close
Walk down the Royal Mile and you’ll see open doorways near the castle end of the street. In Edinburgh terms, these are known as "closes"; basically, very old, narrow, steep streets once replete with open sewers. Now home to bars, restaurants, and museums, they offer a true taste of historic Edinburgh. Advocate’s Close is a particularly interesting one; positioned up high, it affords views of the Scott Monument and a good portion of Edinburgh. Halfway down, The Devil's Advocate is a moodily lit bar that serves up excellent cocktails in a historic setting.

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Mary's Milk Bar
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Mary’s Milk Bar is the best gelateria in Edinburgh—maybe in Scotland—so there's almost always a line here. There will always be the stalwarts—vanilla, chocolate, and the like—but your best is to go for some of the more creative flavors, like ginger and rhubarb; strawberry and elderflower; damson ripple; or tea and biscuits. There are even savory options. You'll see people from all walks of life: locals who want their ice cream fix, trend-seekers who have seen Mary’s on Instagram, and tourists looking to see what all the fuss is about. With only a handful of seats, Mary’s is tiny, but most people are getting their goodies to go. If you're lucky enough to snag a seat, it’s well worth staying for a Knickerbocker Glory, the Holy Grail of British sundaes. Don’t ask them what’s in it—let yourself be surprised.