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What to Do on the Rocky Mountaineer, a Two-Day Train Ride

No Wi-Fi, seatback entertainment, or cell service? No problem.
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Courtesy Rocky Mountaineer

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This is what it must feel like to be a pet. After ten hours on board the Rocky Mountaineer last week, traveling in style across western Canada from Vancouver, British Columbia to Jasper, Alberta ensconced in a double-decker glass-domed train car with cocktail service and a dedicated dining level dishing up white-tablecloth three-course meals, that's the only sentiment I could muster to accurately describe the experience.

Pampered and well-fed, guests on board the luxury rail service—which runs from April through October along different routes spanning Seattle, Vancouver, Whistler, Kamloops, Jasper, and Banff—have only majestic scenery for entertainment. Unlike a flight of the same duration, there's no Wi-Fi or on-board seatback entertainment, and cell phone service is spotty at its very best. A two-day journey across the Rockies via Mountaineer (stopping for overnights in towns along the way) is an exercise in compulsory relaxation. But what if you're an anxious, fidgety, type-A New Yorker whose greatest fear in life after bedbugs is digital detox? Here are a few things to do on board the Rocky Mountaineer—or on board almost any 10-hour train ride, in between ogling mountains, lakes, and trees—that could help save your sanity.

1. Meditate: Before boarding, it's important to manage your expectations and be prepared for a complete intellectual stimulus shut-down. Remind yourself why you booked a long haul train journey to start with—for its unhurried pace and a nostalgic experience (If you wanted to get there faster, you would have flown). Embrace the luxury stretch of nothing-to-do-ness ahead of you by relaxing your mind. Consider downloading a free guided meditation app such as Headspace or Calm ahead of time, and start your journey with a moment of quiet mindfulness.

2. Walk to the parlor car (for exercise), ask for Champagne: One of the most challenging aspects of any long haul travel is coping with restlessness. A couple hours sitting still is fine—but stretch that to ten or more, and your body will be begging for reprieve. While long-walk options in-flight are usually pretty limited—that is, unless you're flying upper class in an A380—a walk from the first car to the last on board the Rocky Mountaineer spans about 1.2 km (three-quarters of a mile). If your train features a parlor, bar, or lounge car, why not take your camera and reading materials for a leg-stretching stroll? Reward yourself upon arrival with a cocktail or glass of champagne.

3. Eat, drink, repeat: When in doubt, eat. Breakfasts and lunches in Gold Leaf class on board the Rocky Mountaineer are served restaurant-style, complete with white tablecloths, on the lower level of the train car and included three courses, with a choice of seven entrees (we highly recommend the mushroom burger, sandwiched inside a savory pretzel bun). Drinks flowed freely—starting with a signature welcome mocktail of orange juice and peach-infused bubbly the very first morning—and cheese, fruit, cookies, scones, and snacks were liberally dispensed throughout the two day ride.

4. Catch up on reading and listening: Probably the most productive you can be during a 10-hour stint anywhere without connectivity or Wi-Fi is by using the time to catch up on books, magazines, podcasts (entire second season of Serial, anybody?), and new music. Just remember to pre-plan your media consumption—keeping in mind you may not be seated near electrical outlets to charge phones or tablets. You know what that means? Bring print: paper books, magazines, newspaper; download podcasts and music ahead of time and you'll be all set to finally get around to finishing that dog-eared copy of Infinite Jest. Or, at the very least, bring some portable chargers.

5. Visit the vestibule: In Kamloops, our 24-car train split in two—with one half heading to Banff and the other en route to Jasper National Park. Our car, in the middle, wound up the last in the split—which placed our outdoor viewing vestibule clear in the back of the train, with only tracks, mountain, trees, and sky racing behind it. This was a great thing—especially for photos and video—and if you have a choice in the matter, try to pick a seat in the last car of the train, just for the view, and especially if your car has an outdoor viewing platform, like most on the Rocky Mountaineer.

6. Make new friends: You never know who you'll meet on a train journey across the Canadian Rockies, and chances are you'll probably never cross paths with most of your fellow passengers again. One of my favorite people on a recent trip was the Americana music icon Bill Hearne, who decided to take a roundabout route on his way to Calgary to play a private concert. For two days, you'll share meals and stories with strangers—and making that human, cross-cultural connection is probably the most rewarding way to pass long stretches of time.

7. If all else fails, nap: The gentle rocking of a leisurely train ride is an especially conducive environment in which to catch 40 winks. Don't worry about missing stunning scenery and landmarks—the onboard guides will wake you (gently) with their announcements over the PA as the train approaches points of interest. If you'd rather spend your evenings enjoying Wi-Fi and TV during an overnight stop, switch your schedule around and get your sleep during the day instead.