Food & Drink

The World's Most Underrated Wine Regions

While researching his fascinating new book, Godforsaken Grapes: A Slightly Tipsy Journey Through the World of Strange, Obscure, and Underappreciated Wine (Abrams), drinks expert Jason Wilson set out to try a good share of the world’s nearly 1,400 types of wine grapes you haven’t heard of—a quest that took him to these regions you probably don’t know but definitely should.
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    Gaillac

    In southwest France, Gaillac has lived in the shadow of Bordeaux for more than 500 years. Along the Tarn River, you’ll find a winemaking culture based on savory red grapes like braucol, duras, and prunelart, and whites like loin de l’oeil and mauzac. Domaine du Moulin, Domaine Plageoles, and Domaine des Terrisses are all using these indigenous grapes in interesting ways.

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    Alto Adige, aka Südtirol

    This German-speaking wine region in Italy is famed for its whites—it’s where the pinot grigio trend was launched—but the amazing reds, made from the local grapes like light-bodied schiava and deep, dark lagrein, are also delicious. Look for wines from Colterenzio, Elena Walch, and Tiefenbrunner Castel Turmhof Winery.

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    Anderson Valley

    Its cool climate is perfect for pinot noir, but the gems of this California region are its aromatic, full-bodied whites, made from such grapes as gewürztraminer, muscat, pinot blanc, and riesling. Look for Handley Cellars, Husch Vineyards, Navarro Vineyards, and Phillips Hill Winery, which all champion these varieties.

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    Valais and Vaud (pictured)

    Dangerously drinkable chasselas is Switzerland’s most popular grape, along with other fleshy whites like petite arvine, heida, and amigne, and reds like diolinoir and humagne rouge. These are my two go-to regions for wines made from all of them, and where you’ll find Domaine Jean-René Germanier, Domaine La Colombe, and Provins.

TopicsDrinks